I had to travel thousands of miles to one of the most desolate and rugged regions of Ireland to see it all clearly. At forty-nine, the writing for my book is finally coming together. Standing here in total awe of the majestic Beara Way (on the southwest coast of Ireland) my distant past is finally coming into clear view.

I came to Ireland, home of my ancestors, to rest, write, photograph and rejuvenate my creative spirit. Sitting here at Anam Cara Writer's and Artist's Retreat (soul friend in Gaelic) tapping away on the keys of my laptop - transposing a week's worth of travel notes scribbled in my journal and notepad.

Ireland is an easy place to travel through as an American. Traveling is an art form. You just have to know how to navigate from one place to the next. Whether you are traveling by bus, bike, car or train it's important that you keep an open mind and learn to go with the flow. No matter how much you pre-plan, things don't always go the way you hope.

I'm sitting here by the window looking out at the giant green Aerlingus Airbus. It's about a 6-hour flight to Shannon, Ireland, then I will take a bus to Limerick, then Killarney, and finally Casteltownbere, the closest town to the Writer's Retreat Center I booked months ago over the Internet. My long awaited adventure is finally beginning.

The flight to Shannon was very bumpy but fast - caught a strong tail wind in the jet stream. Landed an hour early. I didn't get any sleep on the plane and felt tired when we got into the terminal. I changed some money to Euro's and made my way to the bus stop in front of the airport. The bus to Limerick was a little less than five Euro's (almost equivalent to our dollars). I was very lucky to be able to check into the Royal George Hotel in at 8:00am. Fell asleep on the big cozy bed immediately with my clothes on. After waking up and taking a shower, I grabbed my camera and took a walk towards the Shannon River. When I arrived this morning, the city of Limerick was dead, but when I went back outside at 1:00pm, it was alive and bustling. I took a long walk to historic St. Mary's Cathedral built in 1168. I also photographed some ancient Celtic crosses amidst the gravestones surrounding the church and hiked to King John's Castle on the outskirts of town. It was like being transported back in time.

On my way back to the hotel, I stumbled across the tourist information center. I didn't realize they would call ahead and make reservations for you at inexpensive Bed and Breakfasts. I feel better now that I have room reservations for the next two nights. I can't check into the retreat center until September 1st.

     

Enjoying a cup of coffee and a real Irish breakfast of eggs, toast, ham and sausage. This afternoon I plan to take the bus to Killarney. I can feel myself de-compressing already. Being in Ireland is truly helping me put everything in perspective. Last night I could faintly hear Irish music from my cozy bed. It was nice to be lulled to sleep by Irish ballads probably being played in the hotel pub. So far the journey is going well. I don't remember a time where I felt so relaxed and peaceful.

Yesterday afternoon after visiting the tourist center, I meandered into an "out of the way" local pub across from the castle (that shouldn't surprise anyone) and met a couple of unique local old characters. These were not fellows you would encounter at a typical tourist haunt. I had to concentrate hard in order to understand my new friend Ennis's thick Irish brogue. It was well worth it however, he shared his insights about what Limerick was like during the time described in Frank McCourt's best selling memoir, Angela's Ashes and what Ireland was like when he was a young lad. As I walked the narrow streets of Limerick, I tried to imagine myself back fifty years ago when Frank McCourt was a boy roaming the dark, dank streets of the poor side of town. Ireland is a modern country now - at least in the major cities and towns. You can see, however, the American influence in all the major cities of Ireland and Europe. Burger King, McDonald's, and Budweiser beer in longneck bottles served alongside Guinness and Harp's. It's funny how the young locals drink bottles of Budweiser while tourists and the old Irish geezers sip on traditional pints of stout. The American beer is their import and even costs more.

Whew! What a hike from the bus station to this quaint (out of the way) B&B. It was almost two miles up a steady incline lugging my heavy knapsack, cameras and laptop. I don't think I could have walked much further. This is an austere home perched on top of the hill outside of Killarney. The proprietor seems very nice - in fact...everyone I meet in my travels are amiable and go out of their way to be friendly. I had to ask at least three different people for directions and they were all very kind and helpful. Killarney seems to be a more upbeat, modern tourist town. Lots off hustle, bustle, shops and people in the streets. As the bus drove across the Irish countryside I couldn't help but notice how the landscape changes as we head southwest. Dark green hills and mountains loom in the distance. The clouds hover ominously over the expansive and majestic landscape. This country has so much mystery with an ancient and unique past. I truly feel connected to this land and these people.

Just took a hot shower and went outside to take some photographs before breakfast. The crisp morning light was magnificent as it broke through the clouds and delicately touched the flowers by the entrance of this B&B. I took a few shots and then looked over towards Killarney and just stopped in my tracks. The dark purple mountains were still cloaked by low misty clouds like a scene from Lord of the Rings.

I can already sense a true peace enveloping me. Today I will explore the countryside - take some photographs - mail some postcards and purchase my bus ticket for the next leg of my journey to Castletownbere.

What an incredible view I have from the sitting room of this little B&B on the outskirts of the small fishing village of Castletownbere.. There is a large picture window that gives me an expansive view of the ocean and mountains. This truly was worth the two-mile hike - yes...another long hike to a B&B. Must remember to book accommodations closer to the bus station next time. Today, I am going back into town - take some photographs of the colorful boats in the harbor (reminds me a little of Morehead City Docks) and make my way to the retreat center.

    

Arrived at the retreat center at 12:00 today. Sue Booth-Forbes (owner/writer) was not ready for new arrivals due to a large workshop that just ended the night before. She introduced me to another new arrival...an Irish painter by the name of Sarah who had been here last year. We took a walk down to the bottom of the hill behind the big retreat house. We were greeted by a rushing waterfall and a green bridge extending across the stream. It reminded me of a scene from a Monet painting. The expansive landscape behind the center is truly awe inspiring and inspirational. I actually have a great view of the green hills and majestic mountains from my bedroom window. Rolling green meadows dotted by sheep and hills in the foreground with a lake and the mysterious mountains in the distance. The sound of the rushing waterfall compliments this fantastic view. The first phase of my journey has been successful and productive. I am completely blown away by the scenic beauty of this region. Grasping for words to describe it...ancient, timeless and so green. Multi-colored cottages dot the distant landscape breaking the blanket of green that extends towards the hazy horizon. I am certain that God has guided me to this place. This is truly an artist's and writer's paradise.

Tomorrow I will begin my planned routine of writing, photographing and sketching but today I just want to gaze towards the horizon and dream. How can one NOT be inspired to create and rejuvenate at such a magical, mystic place such as this? This next month I plan to write, revise, experiment, explore, photograph, sketch, rest and continue moving forward on my book.

So far I have learned, as a lonely traveler it's important to savor and record the subtle nuance of every experience no matter how small, seemingly insignificant or commonplace.